Check number one starts right in front of your face every time you go driving, and most obviously when it’s wet. It’s your windscreen wipers.

This is one of the first things a mechanic will check at every service. All you have to do is look and listen. Look for streaky patterns as they wipe, and listen for squeaking or shuddering. Either of these indicates that a replacement is due, and we have a full guide to help you do it.

Now, let’s take a look at your lights.

Rather than flicking every light on at once, go one step at a time, it makes it easier to tell which bulb might be blown.

Brake lights can be a little trickier. If you’re backed up to a reflective or glass surface, you can see them in your rearview mirror. Otherwise, you’ll need someone to help check them for you.

If you did find any blown bulbs, check out our full guide to replacing them.

Engine oil, coolant, power steering, brake fluid, and washer fluid. Never mind “blinker fluid”, that’s just your uncle winding you up.

Engine Oil
To check your engine oil, park on a level surface, pull the dipstick, wipe it clean with a rag, reinsert it, then pull it out again and check the level. We have a full guide and video on checking and topping up engine oil - and if it’s due for a change, there’s a guide for that too.

Brake Fluid
You’ll find this on the firewall (the back of the engine bay near the windscreen), with level markings on the side of the reservoir. It’s a super simple check, but pay attention to the fluid itself. If it’s looking more black than translucent, it’s time to consider a change. Manual vehicles may also have a clutch fluid reservoir, which should be treated the same way.

Washer fluid
This is usually located near the front of the car. Pop the cap - if you can’t see any fluid, top it up with tap water until you can. For extra cleaning power, consider adding a small amount of windscreen washer fluid.

Power Steering
This may be a reservoir with level markings on the side, or it could have a dipstick under the cap. You’ll typically see markers for “hot” and “cold,” so make sure you’re checking against the right one. If you can’t find a reservoir, your car likely has electric power steering, one less thing to worry about.

Engine Coolant
Locate the coolant reservoir - it will usually have a cap labelled “COOLANT” or a symbol. Shine a work light through the side to check the level. If it needs topping up, only do this when the engine is cold.

Our full guide and video will run you through everything you need to know.

Whenever a top up is needed, the correct fluid type is usually specified on the cap in the engine bay, in your owner’s manual, or through the Supercheap Auto ‘My Garage’ feature.

Keeping a clean air filter is one of the easiest ways to support engine longevity and optimal fuel economy - but there’s another air filter that’s just as important.

Cabin Air Filter
If you can’t remember the last time this was changed, it’s definitely due for a replacement. We’ve got a DIY guide for that too, but if you’d like to give it a quick check, you’ll usually find it behind the glove box.

As always, your owner’s manual can point you in the right direction. At the very least, tap out any dirt, leaves, and pollen.

Engine Air Filter
A quick tap out of the air filter, along with a vacuum of the air box to remove leaves and bugs, is all that’s needed here. If you’re getting close to the service interval for a replacement, be sure to check out this DIY guide for a more thorough job.

Checking belts and hoses is best done when the car is cold - or at least an hour or two after it was last run.

All Hoses
All hoses under the bonnet should be visually inspected. Look for leaks, signs of cracking, or build up at the ends. Even a fine layer of moisture or oil can indicate a problem, which could be as simple as a loose hose clamp.

Radiator & Heater Hoses
After a visual inspection, give these a squeeze test. Each hose should feel firm, but not brittle or “crunchy.” If it feels soft or is bulging anywhere, it’s definitely time for a replacement.

Serpentine & Accessory Belts
Whether your vehicle uses a single serpentine belt, multiple accessory belts, or older style V-belts, the inspection process is generally the same:

• Get a clear view along each belt and check for fraying and cracking (these are usually most visible where the belt bends)
• Get a clear view along each belt and check for fraying and cracking (these are usually most visible where the belt bends)
• Trace the path of serpentine belts to ensure they’re properly seated on each pulley
• Check tension by pressing on the longest span of each belt and estimating the amount of movement. Around 20mm is a good guide, but your owner’s manual may specify a different amount

Most modern vehicles use an automatic tensioner to maintain correct belt tension, but some older systems require manual adjustment - refer to your owner’s manual for details.

Finally, start the engine and carefully inspect the belts again, this time looking for excessive movement or wobble in the pulleys.

Spark Plugs & Leads
Checking and adjusting spark plugs used to be part of every service, but these days you can usually leave them alone until your schedule calls for it (typically between 100,000 and 200,000km).

If that time’s approaching, or if you’re noticing rough running, we’ve got a full guide to help you check and replace your spark plugs (and inspect your leads) if needed.

Battery
Next up is your battery. Start by checking the battery clamp, you don’t want it moving around. Then inspect the battery case for any swelling or leaks, and look for white or blue corrosion around the terminals.

If you spot any, mix a little bicarb soda with hot water and pour it over the terminals to dissolve the residue. Once dry, finish the job with a spray of battery terminal protector to help prevent future corrosion.

If you’ve noticed slow cranking or hard starting, it might be time for a battery test. Supercheap Auto offers this as a free service. We can also fit a new battery for you (subject to inspection and store availability), or you can tackle it yourself by following our DIY guide.

Wheels
Aside from impact damage from potholes or kerbs, there’s not much to check on your wheels. Keep an eye out for any dents or buckles, and consider checking the torque on your wheel nuts.

You’ll need a torque wrench for this, and you’ll find the correct settings in your owner’s manual.

Tyres
Every tyre has a wear indicator, and you’ll want to make sure you haven’t reached it. Look inside the tread grooves, and you’ll see a small raised bump at intervals.

Uneven wear is another sign to watch for. Tyres that have been overinflated tend to wear more in the centre, while underinflated tyres wear more on the edges. Wear that’s heavier on one side could indicate you’re due for a wheel alignment.

Finally, check your tyre pressures against the placard inside your driver or passenger door jamb. Inflate them with a compressor at home if you have one, or check out our range of tyre inflators.

Brakes
To properly check your brake pads, you’ll need to remove the wheels. Each caliper should have an inspection opening that allows you to check pad thickness.

You’ll see the backing plate and the friction material. If that friction layer is less than around 3mm thick, it’s time for a replacement. Yes, you can do it yourself with our DIY guide.