Buying a new car can sometimes be a daunting prospect especially for the inexperienced. While buying a car from a dealer can reduce the risks of problems, especially if the dealer is offering a warranty, there are obviously more risks involved in a private sale. Fortunately there are various resources and tests available to car buyers that helps make the process 'safer' and less stressful. The following is a list of guidelines and checks you should consider before handing over your hard earned cash.

Revs Checks

Revs stands for Register of Encumbered Vehicles. This means that a REVs check will tell you whether there is any outstanding finance owing on the car. To conduct a Revs check you need the following information:

• Registration number
• VIN number, and
• Engine number.

This information can usually be found on the compliance plate under the bonnet.

When buying a car from a dealer you should be supplied with a REVS certificate. However it is your own responsibility when buying privately. To get a REVS check, contact: 13 13 04

WOVR Check

WOVR stands for the written off vehicle register. This check can be done at the same time as a REVs check and will identify whether the car in question has ever been a "statuary" or "repairable" write off. This check is worth doing to ensure the car you are looking at hasn't been severely damaged in the past.

Third Party Vehicle inspection

If you don't have confidence in your own mechanical knowledge to evaluate a vehicle you should always utilize a third party inspection. This can be done by your local mechanic or motoring groups such as the RACQ or RACV. Such an inspection is a valuable tool for the inexperienced in knowing exactly the condition of the car you are buying and ensuring you have no nasty surprises after the deal is done.

Safety Certificate

Previously known as a road worthy certificate a safety certificate is another essential item needed when a sale takes place. Safety certificates are issued by registered mechanics and indicate that at the time of issue the car is safe to drive. Although it is not a guarantee the car isn't going to develop problems in the future it does mean that it was mechanically sound at the time of issue.

Registration

Before you buy a car you should always check that the person you are dealing with is the registered owner of the car and that the car is actually registered. This can be done by checking the seller's license number against the cars registration details which can be obtained from the department of transport. Change of registration papers must be signed by both the purchaser and the seller at the time of the sale. It is important to remember that these checks will vary state to state so ensure you check with your local authority as what is available.

Your car looks its best when it is clean but not only that if you have a fairly new car, its paint job probably still looks pretty good, but unless you regularly wash and wax your it, it won't be long before the colour starts to fade and rock chips begin to rust.

Paint manufacturers recommend people wash their cars weekly, and wax at least three times a year. Waxing does more than help maintain your car's pristine look, it can prevent damage to your car’s paint, whether your car is old or new. Waxing also makes washing easier.

FAQ's ABOUT CAR WASHING

1. What is the difference between a polish and a wax? Polishes contain compounds designed to remove scratches from the surface of your paint, while waxes protect your car with a clear, hard coating. Polishes provide the "shine" for your paint, while wax provides the "protection."
2. Can I use household cleaners to wash my car? Household cleaners like dishwashing detergent are specifically designed to dissolve grease. Because wax is essentially a grease, household cleaners will remove your car's wax finish; leaving you with little shine and no protection. Also, some household detergents have micro-fine abrasive in them. These can permanently scratch your car's surface. Always use a premium quality liquid designed specifically for cars. They are formulated to dissolve dirt and grime without removing your car's shine.
3. What about the car washes at the petrol station? Generally speaking, these are not recommended. Many of those car washes use mechanical brushes which can damage your paint surface. In some parts of the country, the water is recycled, meaning your car is getting the same water as the one before it.
4. What can I do about water spots on the paint? Simply get them off as soon as possible. Attack those water spots before the sun has a chance to evaporate them, and they'll come right off.

The Easter holiday period provides an opportunity for many of us to get away from our daily lives and off the beaten track. Four wheel driving is a popular Australian past time and will play a part in many family holidays this Easter. Here at Supercheap Auto we stock a wide range of Four Wheel Driving products that can help make your off road adventures a success this Easter.

There are a few basic tricks of the trade that everyone with a 4WD should know before they set off. There are also some vital tools available from Supercheap Auto that will ensure you and your 4WD are prepared for whatever situation you get yourself into.

One such product is the 4WD recovery kit which is a great for those who are either learning the sport or who are already experienced 'off roaders'. It comes with everything you need to get out of a tricky situation if you get stuck when tackling tracks, dirt or sand.

The contents:

• Snatch Strap rated to 8 tonne
• Bow Shackles rated to 3 tonne
• PVC fold sheet
• Tyre air pressure gauge
• Folding Shovel
• Leather & canvas gloves
• Carry Bag with reflector that doubles as a winch cable dampener

The Shovel is a must for any off road kit, used to dig around tyres when in a bog hole so that sticks, leaves, stones etc, can be inserted under the wheel for traction. Other items that are important in any recovery kit are a Snatch Strap and Bow Shackles. The strap is connected to each vehicle by a bow shackle at each end. This allows for one vehicle to pull a bogged vehicle out of trouble. Recovery points that are on the vehicles (where the bow shackles attach), need to be professionally fitted and on lookers must stand at least 15 metres away from any vehicle being 'snatched'.

Once onlookers are cleared the towing vehicle should slowly accelerate to take up the slack and 'snatch' the second vehicle out. The bogged 4WD should assist by using its own power in an effort to drive out. If this fails the first time more slack and acceleration should be applied until enough "snatching" power is produced to pull the bogged car clear.

When driving on rocky or sandy terrain, tyre pressure should be reduced to make the tyres softer, and hence increase traction. A Tyre Air Pressure Gauge is needed so that the driver can determine suitable pressure for the tracks ahead. At the end of any off road adventure, tyres must be pumped up (before hitting the 'Black Top'), The gauge is a handy item, particularly if a simple compressor is being used off road.

Gloves and Sheet help to keep hands protected and allow for a clean spot to work on when out in the dirt. The handy Carry Bag is custom made and includes a reflective safety triangle. It lets others know when you are in trouble and alerts other vehicles that you are stopped on the track when the light is starting to dim. When the bag is emptied, it can also be used as a dampener to go over winch wire.

Changing your car's engine oil is relatively simple provided you follow a few simple tips. To keep your car in peak performance, we recommend that you change your oil filter every time you change your oil. Changing your oil at the recommended intervals (check your owner's manual for further information as some makes will vary from this) will ensure that your engine is operating in top condition.

The first step is to drop down to your local Supercheap Auto store and ask one of our team members about the correct oil and the correct oil filter for your application – they will be only too happy to help!

DIY Cleaning Checklist

• Jack & axle stands (a set of car ramps may also be suitable)
• Suitable socket or spanner for sump plug
• Drain pan
• Engine oil
• Oil filter
• Oil filter wrench
• Funnel
• Rags
• Container for old oil
• Warm Up The Engine - Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached & switch off, as warm oil will drain more effectively than cold oil and help to drain out any built up sludge.
• Raise & Secure Vehicle - Park your vehicle on a level surface and make sure that the handbrake is on and the wheels are chocked. If necessary, jack the car up off the ground and support with axel stands. Alternatively, car ramps can be used.
• Drain Old Oil - Place the drain pan underneath the sump ready to catch the flow. (HOT OIL CAN BURN!) Once all the oil has completely drained, refit the sump plug (preferably with a new gasket) and tighten firmly but not too tight.
• Remove Oil Filter - Using an oil filter removal tool, remove the oil filter.
• Install New Oil Filter - The new oil filter is now ready to be installed. Rub some fresh engine oil over the oil filter gasket and then screw it into location. Hand tight is usually adequate though a slight tighten up with the filter wrench may be necessary when hands are a little oily.
• Refill Oil - Ensure that you know the quantity of oil your car takes before you add any oil to the engine. Never fill exactly the specified quantity of oil immediately as it is good practice to initially fill 80% of the specified capacity. (e.g if your car takes 5 litres put 4 litres in to begin with). Remove the oil filler cap on the top of the engine. Place a medium sized funnel in the aperture and surround the base with a rag or two to catch any spills. Carefully pour in the new oil SLOWLY. Some engines have a habit of developing airlocks which result in the oil spilling back out the filler hole. Periodically, stop pouring and allow the oil to settle down into the engine sump. Check the dipstick until you have the correct level. Note: the dipstick will often indicate an overfill when the correct quantity of oil is added. The level will drop once the oil has circulated to the new filter. Start the engine and make sure the dashboard OIL light goes out or the gauge indicates pressure. If not, stop the engine immediately.
• Check Oil Level - Once you are satisfied with your oil level, run your engine for around 1 minute and then shut it off. Check the engine for oil leaks- particularly around the oil filter and sump plug. Re-check oil level.
• Dispose Of Old Oil Correctly - Check with local authorities about disposing of used oil. Many communities have collection centres which will see that oil is disposed of safely. Never dump used oil on the ground, into drains or in the rubbish bin.
• Re-Check Oil Level - After the first few trips following an oil change it is good practice to check your oil level on the dipstick and also check for any oil leaks.

Change your oil more frequently under adverse driving conditions and during cold weather. It can be advisable to switch to a slightly lower viscosity of oil because cold weather causes oil to thicken. Your local Supercheap Auto store would be more than happy to advise on the best oil for your car.

Please Note: If you're uncertain about any part of this guide, please see a qualified mechanic.

A Hose and Fittings, Sponge and Bucket

Get yourself a good long hose and a really effective spray or jet head fitting to blast away any mud and grime adhering to the bodywork, especially under the wheel arches and underbody areas.

Car Wash

There's a terrific range of carwash available from Supercheap Auto. Many have built-in polish and anti-streak additives. Good quality car wash really does make a difference to the finish.

Polish

There are many excellent polishes available that are not expensive yet give you an excellent shine and protection for your paintwork. Many come with important paint protective additives and lasting glazes for a brilliant showroom shine.

Chamois and Polishing Cloths

Buy yourself a good quality chamois to thoroughly dry off the paintwork before polishing. A foam polish applicator and terry towelling polishing cloth will also make application easier and provide a better result.

Cutting Compounds

If the paint finish on your car is a little dull or faded, you can restore the finish with a cutting paste. Available in several grades to suit the amount of restoration you have to do, these are invaluable aids to restoring that show shine to older vehicles.

Interior Protectants

We carry a large range of polishes and specialty cleaning products for the interior of your car. You’ll find a solution for any cleaning task inside your car.

Tyre Shine and Wheel Cleaner

Don’t forget the wheels and tyres when detailing your car! Supercheap Auto has a range of products which will have your wheels and tyres looking better than new.

1. Prepare For Washing

Water restrictions currently apply in many parts of Australia. Check with your local authorities before you start hosing your car – as it could cost you an expensive fine!

If water restrictions prevent you washing your car using a hose, speak to your local Supercheap Auto store about one of the 'waterless' car wash systems.

Using a good strong jet setting, hose off the sticky grime and mud from the undersides and wheel arches of your car. Better still, use a pressure washer. We have those too.

Next, hose the whole car down working from the top and thoroughly wet the surface. Re-wet the surface regularly while you are cleaning the car to prevent any water stains as it dries.

2. Car Wash

Pour the recommended amount of wash into a bucket. Apply the wash liberally over the paintwork working from the roof down. Do not scrub too hard as contaminants attached to your cleaning product may scratch your paint work.

Hose off and rinse away the suds thoroughly. Finish off with a chamois to dry off the surface. Let the car air dry for half an hour before starting to polish.

3. Apply The Polish

If the paint is faded or dull, now is the time to apply a cutting compound to restore the original gloss to your paint finish.

Cutting compound can also be effective in removing light scratches and scuffs from paintwork.

Supercheap Auto stocks many different polishing products from a number of leading brands. For the best results, always read full directions printed on the product prior to use.

To apply the polishing product, use a foam applicator pad, followed by a microfibre or terry towelling polishing cloth to buff to a lustrous shine.

Use a wax or polymer sealant product to maintain long term paint protection.

4. Long Term Protection

We have a range of waxes and polymers which can seal in the shine for long periods of time. Ensure that you have done the best cleaning job possible before using these products as they can seal in any stains!

Your friendly Supercheap Auto team member will happily help you with product selection. Stubborn tar, bugs and road grime can be removed using a good quality Bug and Tar removal product.

Overheating engines are a common problem for motorists during the hot summer months. No one wants to experience the frustration of engine breakdown and costly repair bills due to a failed cooling system. That's why it pays to check your cooling system regularly and change the coolant as required.

The most common causes of engine overheating are:

• Low coolant level
• Faulty thermostat
• Faulty coolant fan
• Leakage
• Faulty water pump
• Broken water pump fan belt
• Blown cylinder head gasket

If you haven't changed your coolant for a while or you're heading off on a long trip you should take the time to service your cooling system by following the simple instructions below.

What you will need:

• Coolant
• Radiator flush
• Rags
• Hoses

Step 1: Drain the cooling system

First allow the system to cool down! If there are taps fitted to your radiator and engine block, open these and remove the radiator cap to relieve the pressure in the system.

Alternatively, remove the bottom hose to the radiator and allow the system to drain. Catch the old fluid in a suitable pan or container.

Step 2: Flush the system

Refit any hoses and close the taps. Pour the contents of a can of radiator/cooling system flush into the radiator and top up with clean water. Run the engine until warm and then allow to cool before draining the system again. You may see quite a bit of rust deposit and sludge come out with the water. Preferably, run a hose through the system with the taps open to make sure the system is fully flushed.

Step 3: Check and replace worn hoses

Once the system has been completely drained, thoroughly inspect all hoses, clamps and fittings. Check rubber hoses for signs of splitting, swelling or deterioration. Metal fittings should be checked for evidence of cracking or corrosion.

Your local Supercheap Auto store will be able to help you with the new parts to replace the worn or broken items.

Step 4: Refill the system

Make sure all hoses, fittings and clamps are secure and ensure drain tap/s are closed. Refill the system using the correct type and amount of new coolant. Supercheap Auto team members will be able to help you find the right coolant for your car if you are unsure.

Step 5: Check coolant level

Regularly check the level of coolant, especially before long trips. It is normal to have to add coolant occasionally, but the need for regular addition suggests there may be a leak or another problem.

As many Supercheap Auto customers would know rust is a common problem particularly in older vehicles. Repairing rust is a job that is often put off, however following a few simple steps and using products that can be found at Supercheap Auto it can be easily fixed.

The Five simple steps of rust repair are as follows:

1. Remove Paint & Rust

The first step is to remove all paint and loose rust from around the affected area. This can be done by either using a 24 – 36 grit grinding disc or sandpaper of the same grade. Ensure the surface is brought back to bare metal and left in a rough state.

2. Treat the Rusted Area

Once the area has been sanded back to bare metal and flaky rust is removed it is ready to be treated. This is done by applying Septone Rust Converter by brush to the affected sections and left to dry. It is important to adhere to safety instructions on the bottle when using rust converters.

3. Apply Fibreglass or Metal Tech Filler

Use a panel hammer to tap the affected area to ensure a level finish after filling. Then use a filler such as Septone Metal Tech by mixing it with the supplied hardener to a ratio of 50:1. Once the mixture is constant it should be firmly applied to the rusted area and forced into all cracks and holes.

4. Rough Sand Filler.

The Metal Tech filler will take approximately 20 minutes to cure and be ready for sanding, once cured rough sand with dry 36 – 40 grit sandpaper. At this stage the application of a Septone Rust Proofing product will prevent further rusting.

5. Mix and Apply Body Filler

The final step is to seal the surface using a Septone Car Filler product. Mix car filler on a clean mixing board made of plastic or metal to the ratio 50 parts car filler, one part hardener using a plastic applicator pad. Once a uniform colour is achieved it is ready to apply directly over the Metal Tech filled area. The final step to return the panel to its original condition is to sand and re-paint the surface.

To choose the right car stereo equipment, there are seven key questions:

• Determine how much money you have to invest in your system.
• Decide whether you are seeking "audiophile quality" or the modern equivalent of the AM radio.
• Are you an "audio enthusiast" who wants all the bells and whistles, or is an FM Stereo all that you require?
• What types of music do you usually listen to? Are you strictly jazz or do you like heavy metal?
• How long do you think you'll own your car or the equipment you purchase?
• Lastly, what special things do you have to watch out for with your car stereo? Does it have odd-shaped openings for speakers or the "head-unit?"
• Is your car or truck designed to accommodate after-market systems?

Once you've answered these questions, you'll be on your way to making an informed buying decision.

Audio equipment comes in a wide range of prices, quality, and performance, from the least expensive mass-produced CD players, tuner/amplifiers and all-in-one systems with navigation and even TV screens, to precision-crafted "reference" components costing several hundred dollars. The key is to obtain the best possible sound quality at the most reasonable price.

If you enjoy bringing your music from our home into your car then you need a good sound system. This is why most people turn to after-market products to enhance their listening experience. Having a good quality sound system can be quite costly and this is why you should consider your purchase carefully.

One thing to consider is your car itself. Is it a 2 door, 4 door, hatch or sedan. This is important as it can greatly influence the type of sound system you purchase.

Smaller cars don't need as much power as larger cars, simply because there is not as much space for the sound to travel within. Smaller cars generally have 4 speakers. Simply upgrading these speakers will not be enough to greatly increase the sound quality. Upgrading the stereo to one that puts out 50watts per channel will give a greater increase in sound quality.

For larger cars it gets a little more complicated. In some large cars there are up to 6 speakers. It's not necessary to replace all 6; replacing 4 should be sufficient. One thing to consider in larger cars is getting a sub-woofer. Sub-woofers usually sit in the boot of the car and can put out a good amount of bass depending on the sub-woofer. To run the sub-woofer and amplifier is also necessary.

Finally go and visit your local Supercheap Auto store where our friendly team members will be able to help you in choosing the stereo that's right for you.

With winter nearly upon us it's sure to bring on a few flat batteries as well, and here at Supercheap Auto we have got you covered when it comes to batteries and anything you might need to get your vehicle going if you do suffer a flat battery.

Late model cars are generally more dependent on complex electronics to function and any voltage spike can damage the delicate electronic circuitry. Where possible, quality jumper leads fitted with a 'spike guard' or 'surge protector' will eliminate these problems and are available from any Supercheap Auto store. The following precautions should be read and understood before any jump starting attempt is undertaken.

• Ensure that the ignition switch is in the OFF position
• Turn off the lights and power draining functions to help ease the strain off the donor battery.
• Ensure that the donor battery is the same voltage as the flat battery.
• Ensure that the two vehicles are not touching in anyway
• Make sure that the vehicles are in either Neutral (Manual) or Park (Auto)
• It is advisable that the vent caps be removed on non-maintenance free batteries. (be very careful as battery acid is corrosive)

Jump Starting Procedure

• With all precautions checked, connect the red coloured jumper lead to the (+) positive terminal of the booster battery and the other end of the red jumper lead to the (+) positive terminal of the flat battery.
• Connect the black jumper lead to the (-) negative terminal of the booster battery and the other end of the black jumper lead to a good earth point on the disabled vehicle. (The engine block is typically the best place for a good earth point).
• Start the engine of the disabled vehicle and with the engine speed at idle, disconnect the jumper leads in the reverse order of connection.
• The car has now been started and after any caps and covers have been replaced it is ready to be driven. The cause of the flat battery should be identified and rectified as soon as possible.

* This is a general guide only
* Supercheap Auto does not accept any responsibility for any detriment incurred whilst following this instruction

A car radio aerial can be replaced in as little as 30 minutes and is a car repair that you can complete in only 9 easy steps!

• Take notice of how the old wiring/cable is routed through the body panels. This is the first step in ensuring the job is a quick one. If you start pulling at wiring without knowing how it runs through the car, your job could turn from 30 mins to a couple of hours.
• Unplug the old cable from the radio jack located at the back of the cd/cassette/radio head unit.
• Mark the cable by taping a length of string to the cable plug. This enables you to compare the length of the old cable to the new, so when you go to install the new cable it will be long enough to be routed through the car and reach the radio jack.
• Free the cable from any clips or brackets.
• Remove the nut at the aerial and slide other parts off (see illustration).
• With a screwdriver, push through the hole down one side of the clamp and pull the aerial and old cable out. Carefully pull the cable & string through, tugging them gently as they clear through any tight spots.
• Tape the new aerial cable to the string and simply pull it through.
• Plus the new cable into the radio jack.
• Attach the new aerial

It may seem easy to some but there a few tips that can make changing a tyre just that little bit easier and more importantly, safely.

• Remember that any unnecessary driving of the car whilst the tyre is flat can result in further damage to both the flat tyre and rim.
• Try to find the most level and firm ground available to perform the operation.
• Once a suitable location has been selected ensure that the handbrake is applied and the transmission is in gear (P for an auto)
• If a safety triangle is available place this well before the vehicle to warn on coming motorists.

Handy Tip: Supercheap Auto stock mechanics gloves which can be a very useful glove box addition to keep hands clean for any roadside repairs or when refuelling.

• If the one of the front wheels are going to be raised ensure that the rear wheels are chocked. Likewise, if one of the rear wheels are to be raised ensure that the front wheels are chocked.
• Remove the jack, jack handle, wheel brace and spare tyre from the car and place on the ground. This is to avoid any unnecessary movement of the car once hoisted.
• The car is now ready to be jacked up; different jacks have different instructions and every car has a specified jacking point. Be certain to familiarise yourself with these before hoisting the vehicle. Instructions must followed exactly and NEVER PLACE YOURSELF UNDERNEATH A VEHICLE THAT IS HOISTED BY A JACK.
• Jack the car up slightly (to secure the jack under the car but not to raise the wheel off the ground). If necessary, carefully remove the wheel cover.
• Using the wheel brace, slightly loosen (do not remove) all wheel nuts.
• Continue jacking the car up until the tyre is approximately 5cm – 10cm off the ground.
• Remove all the wheel nuts from the studs and keep in a handy place.
• Remove the flat tyre, roll it out of the way and lay it down on its side so that it doesn’t roll away
• Roll the replacement tyre up to the vehicle
• The tyre now needs to be lined up with the wheel studs. It can be a little tricky but with a little effort it should slip on without too much hassle.

Expert Tip: When placing the replacement tyre on, try to keep the wheel as upright as possible, this will help the studs align with the holes first time.

• Once the tyre is located, replace the wheel nut onto the top stud as this will help to keep the other studs located on the rim.
• All wheel nuts can now be secured finger tight.
• Using the wheel brace, slightly firm up the wheel nuts. (they do not need to be completely tightened at this stage).
• Lower the jack and vehicle.
• The wheel nuts should then be further tightened using the wheel brace. There is no need to stand/jump on the wheel brace as the correct torque can be achieved using arm strength.
• Replace the wheel cover if necessary.
• Collect the flat tyre, wheel brace, jack, safety triangle and store securely in the relevant location.
• Remember to get the flat tyre serviced by tyre repairer as soon as possible.

Should you require jacks, wheel braces, safety triangles, mechanics gloves or wheel chocks be sure to drop into your local Supercheap Auto store.

*This is a general guide only
*Supercheap Auto does not accept any responsibility for any detriment incurred whilst following this instruction.

HOW TO JACK YOUR VEHICLE UP SAFELY!

Jack safety is critically important to preventing serious injury or death when it is necessary to work beneath your vehicle. Failure to observe jack safety can result on the vehicle falling, pinning you or someone else beneath it.

Proper jacking techniques and support stands are critical for your safety. Never skip safety requirements when raising a vehicle to work beneath it.

How to jack your vehicle safely, do-it-right!

Always position your vehicle on a level surface (preferably pavement or concrete*) before jacking.

• Wheel ramps are a safe and easy way to raise one end of a vehicle
• Always chock (block) any wheels remaining on the ground if only one end of the vehicle is raised.

-OR-

• Position a floor jack under the frame, cross-member or manufacturer recommended jacking point when jacking. Once positioned, jack the vehicle up.
• Position jack stands where they can't slip or allow the vehicle to slip or rock. Never use jack stands on dirt where they can sink.
• Repeat jacking procedure for the other side of the vehicle, if required. Slowly lower the car onto the jack stands.

* Use plywood under jack stands or ramps if working on hot pavement to avoid damage to the surface and decrease the risk of tip over.

What you will need

• A level surface
• Floor jacks, scissors jack, or bottle jack
• Jack stands
• Wheel chocks
• Your vehicle's jack points (in owner's manual)

Ramps or floor jacks are the best ways to raise a vehicle. A bottle jack or your vehicle's jack should never be relied upon for support if someone must work beneath a vehicle. Similarly, bottle jacks are unstable and can easily slip. Always position a floor jack beneath the vehicle frame, suspension, or at the manufacturer's recommended jacking points. Once raised, use jack stands for supplemental support. Never use milk crates for support. Wheel chocks are also recommended for any wheels still on the ground. Super Cheap Auto carries a complete line of floor jacks, ramps and jack stands so that you can work on your vehicle safely.

WHY YOU SHOULD CLEAN BRAKE DUST OFF YOUR WHEELS EVERY TIME YOU WASH YOUR CAR - AND HOW TO DO-IT-YOURSELF!

Brake dust deposits not only look bad, but they're also harmful to the wheel itself. If left on, the corrosive nature of the brake dust will corrode the clear coat over time and actually eat into the aluminium alloy wheel surface leaving large pits for which there is no practical fix.

HOW TO GET RID OF BRAKE DUST, DO-IT-YOURSELF& SAVE!

• Make sure the wheels are cool. Wheels absorb heat from the braking process. Allow the wheels to cool off and do your cleaning in the shade.
• Rinse the entire rim to remove any grit that may scratch your wheels during the scrubbing process.
• Spray the entire rim with wheel cleaner that's safe to use on your wheels and allow to soak for 60 seconds. Be sure to spray into all of the nooks and crannies where brake dust accumulates.
• After the cleaner soaks for the allotted time, take a soft bristle brush and lightly scrub the surface. Select a brush that fits into all of the recessed areas.
• Rinse off the wheel cleaner immediately after you have brushed the brake dust loose. These cleaners are extremely strong and may affect the wheel's finish if left on too long.
• Dry the wheel immediately to prevent water spots. Minerals in some types of water will etch into a wheel as easily as corrosive brake dust.
• Applying a coat of paste wax every six months provides excellent protection against brake dust pitting your wheels. It also makes them easier to clean.
• Don't forget the inside surface of your wheels. They get the bulk of the brake dust build-up and can be easily seen with open spoke style wheels.

What you will need:

• Wheel cleaner
• Clean towels
• Bucket and sponge
• Hose and nozzle
• Shady area
• Liquid wax
• Soft bristle brush

HOW YOU CAN RID YOUR VEHICLE OF OFFENSIVE ODOURS AND GET BACK THAT NEW CAR SMELL!

DRIVE A VEHICLE THAT SMELLS LIKE NEW

Undesirable vehicle odours can put a real dent in the driving experience for both you and your passengers. Don't put up with odours lurking in the nooks and crannies of your vehicle's interior for another minute. Super Cheap Auto has an impressive range of cleaning supplies and car fresheners to get your vehicle smelling like new again.

What you will need

• Clean terry towelling
• Paper towels
• Rug and fabric upholstery cleaner
• Cleaning brush
• Vacuum cleaner
• Disposable gloves
• Rags
• Sponges
• Odour eliminating chemical
• Air freshener

HOW TO GET BACK YOUR NEW CAR SMELL!

• Different vehicle fabrics and materials have different requirements for care and cleaning. Always test any cleaning product in an inconspicuous area before use. Do not use abrasive scrubbing products.
• Vacuum the carpet and seats. After you've removed the larger chunks of past driving experiences, get down to the nitty gritty. Use a brush attachment to prevent scratches when vacuuming.
• Nothing collects dirt and odour like old sticky soft drink. Focus on cup holders and spills from yesteryear. Soak stubborn deposits with your favourite cleaner.
• To deodorise and clean, get down to the source. Use fabric cleaner on cloth and rags. Vinyl and plastic respond well to the gentle texture of terry towelling.
• Neutralise any remaining odours. Today's chemistry means you can choose just about any scent you want, even a neutraliser that eliminates odour without a scent of its own.
• Protect against future spills. Everything from old-fashioned rubber floor mats to space-age chemical protectants go a long way in keeping your vehicle clean and odour free.

Keep up with the latest TERMINOLOGY OF TODAY'S NEW CARS!

New vehicle features and accessories are becoming more complex. When you know the names of many of these systems, you can make better decisions about options you may want to purchase with your new car. We hope this quick review of common terms will put you at ease when you are asked about your interest in any specific features and options.

UNDERSTANDING TODAY'S AUTO TALK

• All-Wheel Drive (AWD): A system where all four wheels can be driving at the same time. Depending on the vehicle, computer controls may engage all wheels all of the time or only two wheels until slippage occurs.
• Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS): ABS uses electronic sensors to detect whether individual wheels are skidding or locked up during heavy braking and then momentarily releases braking until traction is regained.
• Electronic Brake Force Distribution (EBD): A braking system that electronically distributes braking between the front and rear wheels under stopping conditions not aggressive enough to activate ABS. This helps reduce your stopping distance.
• Limited Slip Differential: Splits the power evenly between the two drive wheels to maximise traction. It prevents one wheel from spinning when the other wheel is stationary.
• Micron Air Filter: Also known as a cabin filter, the Micron air filter removes dust, pollen and other airborne particles from the air coming in to the vehicle through the air conditioning or heater vents.
• Rear Differential Lock: An electromechanical system that locks both rear axles together providing them with equal drive power. For use in limited traction off-road situations.
• Traction Control: An electronic system that senses slippage at the drive wheels and reduces engine power, or applies the brakes, to regain traction.
• Vehicle Skid Control (VSC): An electronic system that monitors vehicle speed and direction, and compares this data with steering and braking input. This helps the driver maintain control during difficult driving conditions.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• A HOSE AND FITTINGS.
• CAR WASH BRUSHES, SPONGES

Get yourself a good long hose and a really effective spray or jet head fitting to blast away any mud and grime adhering to the bodywork, especially under the wheel arches and underbody areas. We have a great selection of quality hoses in different lengths, fittings, special car wash fittings and brushes to go with them. Just ask. Pick out a good sized brush that’s not too harsh. We sell ones that will fit on the hose end to make life easier! A rinsing bucket is also a great idea.

CAR WASH

There’s a terrific range of carwash available these days and many have built-in polish and anti-streak additives. Don’t pinch the budget on this time, it really does make a difference to the finish.formula1products

POLISH

Much like the wash, don’t penny pinch on your choice of polish. There are several excellent polishes available that are not expensive yet give you a much better shine and protection for your buck. Many come with important paint protective additives and lasting glazes for a brilliant showroom shine.

CUTTING COMPOUNDS

If the paint finish on your car is a little dull or faded, you can restore the finish with a cutting paste. Available in several grades to suit the amount of restoration you have to do, these are invaluable aids to restoring that show shine to older vehicles.

CHAMOIS AND POLISHING MITTS

Buy yourself a good quality chamois leather to dry off the paintwork before polishing. Also get a polishing mitt or pad from our range of sheep skin and synthetic models. A really good polishing product will make the difference between an OK job and a pro finish.

INTERIOR PROTECTANTS ETC.

We carry a large range of polishes and specialty cleaning products for the interior of your car. You’ll find a solution for any cleaning task inside your car.

TACKLE THE INTERIOR BEFORE YOU WASH!

WHAT YOU DO

• HOSE DOWN THE CAR. ALWAYS PLAN TO WASH AND POLISH THE CAR AWAY FROM DIRECT SUNLIGHT! Using a good strong jet setting, hose off the sticky grime and mud from the undersides and wheel arches. Better still use a power washer. We have those too. Next hose the whole car down working from the top and thoroughly wet the surface. Re-wet the surface regularly while you are cleaning the car to prevent any water stain as it dries.
• CAR WASH Pour the recommended amount of wash into a bucket or fill the head of your washer attachment. Apply the wash liberally over the paintwork working from the roof down. Do not scrub too hard as contaminants attached to your cleaning product may scratch your paint work. Hose off and rinse away the suds thoroughly. Finish off with the chamois leather or synthetic to dry off the surface. Make sure you get into all those little nooks and crannies. Let the car air dry for half an hour before starting to polish.
• APPLY THE POLISH If the paint is faded or dull, now is the time to apply a cutting compound to restore the original colour of your paint finish. Follow the instructions on the pack to the letter! Use a good quality polish to protect the restored finish against further fading and traffic grime. Polish regularly to keep up the shine.
• LONG TERM PROTECTION. We have a range of waxes and polymers which can seal in the shine for long periods of time. Be very sure that you have done the best job possible before using these products as they can seal in any stains very effectively also!

AND THAT'S IT!

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

Plug Wrench

This is a special wrench which fits your plugs perfectly. They usually come with a T bar for just the right grip or as a padded socket to be used with a ratchet and extension. You'll find them in the tools section.

Feeler Gauges

These are made from very thin steel and can be used to measure the gaps in your plugs and pointdiymar05_gaugess. Correct gaps are vital to good tuning.

Plugs

Super Cheap Auto has a massive range of plugs and ignition parts. It's very easy to find the exact matches for your car.

Points (IF EQUIPPED)

The points in the distributor regulate the spark at the plugs. Correct points gaps and having your points in good condition are vital to smooth running. Make sure you check or change yours when tunindiymar05_condensorg up.

Condenser (IF EQUIPPED)

Often overlooked, the condenser is a very important little piece of technology, fitted to your distributor. It often pays to replace when tuning up. You'll find them with the plugs and other ignition parts instore.

Ignition Leads

These come singly or in sets to suit your car. Check the guide in store for an exact match. If in doubt, ask a team member and/or if you can, bring an old lead in with you.

Rags

Grab a rag bag! No matter how careful you are there will always be a little mess and it's usually on you!

WHAT YOU DO

• CHECK OR CHANGE THE PLUGS - Make a note of which plug lead goes to which plug and remove the leads from the plugs. Carefully unscrew each plug out of the head and examine them. A light brownish deposit is OK – this means the engine is running normally. Black or sooty plugs indicate on over-rich petrol mixture and white deposits show a mixture that is too lean. Oily deposits may indicate internal engine problems. Worn or dirty plugs should always be replaced with new ones. Check the gaps against your car's specifications and adjust them if necessary. Refit the plugs - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN, and replace the correct leads. A length of rubber hose pushed over the end of the spark plug will save time and prevent damaged threads when refitting.
• IGNITION LEADS AND POINTS - Check for cracks in the leads and make sure the caps at the plug end are tight and securely located on the spark plug tips. Check the other end at the distributor cap and make sure of a secure fit there too. To replace a lead, just pull it off the spark plug and off the distributor cap. Check first as some distributor caps have a screw cap on the leads. If you are replacing all the leads, match up the lengths BEFORE you remove anything, and mark the lead with its appropriate plug number, noting where it enters the distributor. It is essential that the leads are positioned exactly where the old ones were. Your engine will not run unless they are. Replace only one at a time to be sure. While you're there, remove the distributor cap and check its condition inside. The contacts around the inside of the cap should not be too worn or corroded. If they are, replace the cap with a new one. If there appear to be cracks in the plastic, replace the cap. Check the contact in the centre which should be spring loaded. If it is floppy and the spring doesn't work too well, replace the cap. Most common ignition problems stem from worn components. If in doubt, replace the lot anyway. They are not expensive and the new ones will ensure trouble free motoring. Also ensure that your ignition system is nice and dry. A good idea is to spray the whole area with an 'anti-damp' or lubricant aerosol spray. This stops corrosion and keeps the moisture out in damp conditions.
• FIT A NEW CONDENSER - Locate the old condenser under the cap or to the side of the distributor body and unscrew the attachment screws. Carefully undo the contact screw and remove the condenser. Fit a new one in reverse order Check your fanbelt regularly.

AND THAT'S IT!

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

When buying an air compressor you need to know what air tools will work effectively with it. What the tools will be used for and the size of the job. Knowing this will allow you to select the correct compressor. Make sure the CFM (cubic feet per minute) and psi (pounds per square inch) of the compressor is high enough to operate the intended tools. Select a compressor with at least 1.5 times more CFM than required.

TOOLS

Just about any job that can be done with an electric tool can be done with an air tool. Many of our air tools work out cheaper than the equivalent electrical option. You'll find an air tool to fasten, paint, sand, cut, drill, and nail.

FITTINGS

Our range covers the most popular styles. Most are available in a large variety including, male, female, barbs and quick release couplers. Due to many different styles of fittings available, it is important to continue to purchase the same type as purchased previously to insure compatibility.

AIR HOSE

Air hose delivers the power to the tools from the compressor. It is better to use a long air hose rather than a long electrical extension lead, to avoid a voltage drop reducing the compressors performance. A longer air hose will act as an additional air storage receiver making the compressor more efficient.

OTHER ACCESSORIES

A worthwhile accessory is a filter regulator that ensues clean and efficient air flow. Add an in line water trap, an in line oiler and other accessories to extend the life of your tools.

CHECKLIST

• Air Compressor
• Air tools
• Rags
• Inline oiler
• Filter regulator
• Safety equipment
• Oil compressor
• Airtool oil

WHAT TO DO

Read your Manual

Important information and common questions are answered in the operation manual(s). Make sure you keep them handy for further reference.

• OILING - Compressors and air tools require oiling to keep them in working order. Compressors have a dip stick or a sight glass to make checking the oil level easy. Check the oil level prior to use. Mechanical air tools must also be oiled prior to every use, an inline oiler will ensure this vital task is not forgotten.
• POWER SUPPLY - Use a dedicated power point. Most compressors will use the full capacity of a 10 amp household power point. Using a double adaptor will reduce the efficiency damage to the unit.
• REGULATE THE AIR - Check the recommended operating pressure for the tool being used. Use a regulator to ensure this level is not exceeded. Higher pressure will not make the tool operate any better and may well cause damage to the tool.
• CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE - To prevent rusting make sure any moisture is drained from the air tank after use. Be sure to release any pressure in the tank before releasing the drain valve. Do not place the compressor in a dirty environment. Dust and paint particles will be sucked into the unit, reducing the life of the compressor, clean the air filter regularly.

Air power is a great investment. Air tools run cooler and last longer than electric tools if properly maintained.

AND THAT'S IT!

With summer motoring now here, it's even more important to ensure that your car cooling system is running at its best to cope with our harsh summer.

What You'll Need

• HOSES - Leaking or split hoses will significantly reduce the efficiency of your cooling system and can lead to severe engine damage. Always check the condition of the heater and radiator hoses when you check over your engine. Super Cheap Auto have a vast range of all types of hoses to match your car.
• THERMOSTAT - The thermostat is a temperature sensitive valve that regulates the coolant flow in your engine. Proper operation is vital to correct cooling. They are usually found in a housing that sits at the top end of the engine and connects to the top hose of the radiator. You'll need to remove this housing to get to the thermostat.
• COOLANT - There are many types and grades of coolant fluid available. They all do different jobs and some are better at it than others. A Super Cheap Auto team member will be happy to steer you to the right one for your car's age and running conditions. Just ask! NOTE:- If you use a quality coolant at appropriate service intervals the system should stay clean.
• RADIATOR FLUSH - Always flush out your cooling system and radiator whenever you change the coolant. It gets rid of harmful sludgy deposits and rust scale which can damage your system over time.
• FANBELT - Fanbelts can stretch and fray in time and can also get contaminated with oil which makes them slip. Perfect operation of the fan is vital to any cooling system. Also, don't forget that the fanbelt drives the water pump which keeps everything flowing.
• RAGS - Grab a rag bag. No matter how careful you are there will always be a little mess and it's usually on you.

What to do

• DRAIN THE COOLING SYSTEM - First allow the system to cool down. If there are taps fitted to your radiator and engine block, open these and remove the radiator cap to relieve the pressure in the system. Alternatively remove the bottom hose to the radiator and allow the system to drain. Catch the old fluid in a suitable pan or container. Dispose of the fluid carefully and remember: it's poisonous!
• FLUSH THE SYSTEM - Refit any hoses and close the taps. Pour the contents of a can of radiator/cooling system flush into the radiator and top up with clean water. Run the engine until warm and then allow to cool before draining the system again. You may see quite a bit of rough deposit and sludge come out with the water. Preferably, run a hose through the system with the taps open to make sure the system is really flushed clean.
• CHECK AND REPLACE WORN HOSES - Undo any hose clips and attachments, joining the hoses to the engine and radiator and pull off the hoses. Throw away any that are split or looking tired and replace with new ones. Use new hose clips where possible (we have lots of those).
• FIT A NEW THERMOSTAT - Locate and remove the thermostat housing (usually two or three simple bolts). Lift out the old thermostat and drop in a new one. We have the exact match for your car. Refit the housing with a new gasket.
• REFILL THE SYSTEM - Make sure all the hoses are replaced and the clips are tightened properly. Close any taps and fill up with new coolant to the correct quantity for your car.

AND THAT'S IT!

At some point in time most of us will have to tow something in our lives. Whether it be a trailer load of soil, a caravan or even a boat for those of us who are lucky enough. The fact is that towing some form of trailer at some point in time is going to be hard to avoid. Although it might seem easy to some, to the first timer it can be very intimidating and sometimes even the experienced can benefit from knowing the proper safety precautions. The following tips have been compiled to define the proper towing practices and safety precautions that should be taken by all. Below are some basic terms that all drivers should be familiar with when talking about towing:

• Receiver - Hitching platform fitted to the towing vehicle.
• Ball Mount - Removable component which fits into the receiver and is attached to the hitch ball. These are available from Supercheap Auto in many variations.
• Hitch Ball - Is the ball like connection which mates the hitch to the trailer.
• Coupler - The ball socket on the front of a trailer that fits over the ball mount.
• Hitch weight - The amount of weight carried by the hitch when the trailer is connected.

Attaching a trailer

Before attaching your coupler you should slightly grease the tow ball so the hitch can rotate smoothly. Safety chains should be long enough for tight turns but short enough not to drag on the ground. Ensure that your safety chains and electric plug are firmly secured. The tow ball should be at the height so that the trailer sits level when connected. Your tow vehicle should also be able to accept the weight without major change to its level. Try to follow the same procedure each time you hook up your trailer so you remember all points.

Before you head off on each towing trip no matter how long it is the following checks should be made:

• The pin which secures the ball mount to the receiver on your vehicle should be intact.
• The hitch coupler is fastened and secured.
• The safety chain is properly attached to the vehicle.
• The electrical plug is properly installed.

Before setting off you should also be aware of the towing capacity of your vehicle and ensure it is capable of safely towing what you are attempting to tow. Towing capacities can be found in the owners manual provide be the manufacturer of your vehicle. One of the final checks that is essential to safe towing is to check the tow vehicles brake lights, indicators, reversing lights and driving lights are working correctly.

Towing Techniques

All inexperienced towers or even drivers with new vehicles should start with short towing trips. These trips will allow drivers to get used the extra weight and strain of the tow vehicle and understand the adjustments required when braking and accelerating.

Cornering

When towing it is important to take into account the extra length of the trailer. When turning the corner approach the corner further from the side of the road/object than you usually would. You should also continue straight for a bit longer before turning to allow room for the trailer to turn without getting too close to the edge.

Reversing

Reversing a trailer or caravan can take a lot more space than most people think. Allowing extra space will let you make the necessary corrections so you don't end up stuck. Ensure that you begin reversing with your vehicle and the trailer as straight as possible. It's also a good idea if possible to have someone outside the car directing you. What you have to remember when reversing with a trailer is that everything turns opposite to how it would if you were just reversing a car.

If you want to make the trailer turn to your right instead of turning the wheel to the right like you would ordinarily you need to turn it to the left. What this does is push the back of your car to the left which in turn pushes the trailer right. It is also important to remember that a minor turns of the steering wheel when reversing a trailer can move the angle of your trailer dramatically.

Another technique is to place your hand at the bottom of your steering wheel. Whichever way you move your hand is the direction that the trailer will go.

As mentioned the main thing to remember for beginners is to not turn the wheel the way that feels right but do the opposite as the dynamics of reversing a trailer are inversed.

Braking

Greater braking distance should always be applied when you are towing. If you are approaching a stopping point (eg. red light) you should reduce power slightly so it takes you longer to get there. It is also recommended that you use all your gears when braking with a trailer as to take as much pressure as possible off the brakes.

When towing anything behind your car you should always apply caution and be prepared. Be aware of the extra length of your vehicle and its towing capabilities and don't get yourself into towing situations such as reversing that you not comfortable with without some practice first.

Supercheap Auto Lubes Guide

If you are looking for the right oil for your car check out our Lubes Guide Links below:

• Castrol: http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/
• Shell: http://www.shell.com/home/page/au-en/shell_for_businesses/lube_match/app_lubematch.html
• Valvoline: http://www.valvoline.com.au/lube_frame.cfm
• Penrite: http://www.penritedata.com/au/db/vehiclewizard2_s.php?cid=9

Like most automatic-transmission equipped cars on the road today, they use a transmission oil cooler. This cooler is built into the engine's water radiator. It is designed to keep the transmission oil as cool as the engine water temperature. There is no excuse for injecting heat into a cool transmission just because the motor is running hot.

Also, when racing or under high-speed loads, the transmission can use all the help it can get to remove waste heat. The installation of a separate transmission cooler, with the original cooler also being used, is what we did to the XY. Why? Well the factory unit does work well and in our case we just wanted to supplement it even further rather than using the new cooler as a direct replacement.

Because of the tremendous heat generated in an automatic transmission, an auxiliary transmission oil cooler is an economical way to help protect against costly transmission repairs. Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) cools, lubricates and cleans internal transmission components. When transmission temperatures exceed 93°C, the ability of ATF to perform is greatly diminished.

Subsequently, the life span of the fluid, seal and moving parts are significantly reduced. Higher internal temperatures also increase the wear rate of the friction and clutch plates.

Transmission oil coolers can reduce the ATFs temperature by as much as 33°C. A reduction of just 11°C can double the life of an automatic transmission, the fluid and all internal parts. A quick trip to the local Supercheap Auto store netted us a trans cooler and associated equipment required to complete the install.

TOOLS REQUIRED

• Standard blade screwdriver for hose clamps.
• Drill and a selection of metal drill bits.
• Mini pipe cutter or hacksaw to cut existing cooler plumbing.
• Sharp knife to cut cooler hose.
• A plastic bowl or container to catch tube fluid.

SUPPLIES AND PARTS NEEDED

• Plate-type transmission cooler Model 678 from Davies Craig in our case.
• Mounting kit supplied with cooler.
• Nuts and bolts or self-tapping screws for custom mounting the cooler.
• Hose clamps (four clamps supplied in most kits).
• Transmission oil hose. Some comes with the cooler. Additional hose if required must be rated for oil/fuel use.